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Geriatrics and Oloroso Port

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I don't know why one would attempt to keep an ordinary Côte du Rhône for 36 years, but my uncle Theo did.  Bless his recently departed dear soul.

Uncle Theo—a true uncle, actually (if you were brought up a good South African kid everyone is called "Uncle"; except the "Aunts", generally)—is the one responsible for introducing me to wine, and he kindly left me what remained of his collection.

So I am currently, and with increasing amazement, wending my way through the geriatric ward.

My first encounter was with a 1969 Zonnenbloem Cabernet.   An almost certainly doomed little affair starting off on a very bad footing:  My mother owns the crappiest corkscrew imaginable—don't, ever, buy a solid spiral corkscrew!—and 40 year old corks demand tender loving nursing care at the best of times.

Having, in due course, crumbled the cork from the bottle, I poured myself a glass—and immediately cheered up.  The wine, though quite terra cotta at the rim, had nonetheless managed to retain a bright garnet core and looked very much alive—much to my surprise.  South African wine before the mid 80's paraded far more misses than hits, and certainly very, very few wines for the long haul.  And this wine was almost as old as I am.  Not, normally, much cause for celebration.

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Top Australians

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Fifty top Australians for €20?  You could do a lot worse.

Nip along to Fallon & Byrne on the 24th of November and taste John Wilson's top 50 Australian wines for the price of three pints.  You might even get something to snack on thrown in for free.

John Wilson, should you not keep up with the Times, is the wine writer for said newspaper, and when we last chatted at the Marks & Spencer tasting he was hinting that his selection included a few rather special wines that you may not normally have the good fortune to taste.

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The Sad Truth

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Pick a bottle of wine.  Any bottle of wine.   A decent, not too cheap Italian, say, like our last wine of the week for September.

Transport it to France via the UK; or Germany; or Tunisia; or all three of them, for all the difference this would make.  And pick it up off the shelf in Carrefour for €7.50, at most.  It would have cost you no more than €3 at the cellar door—and it will cost you €12 in Ireland, shipped in straight from Italy.  Well €11.99, to dilute the shock.

We are used to complaining—but not actually doing anything much:  "That's the deal.  Get over it.  No one's forcing you to buy the stuff."  No use making a fuss over what we can't change, right?

Possibly.  And the last revolutionary probably left for greener pastures North in the 70s.  But there's one meaningful act of supremely rational defiance we can all indulge in without risking life, limb, or social embarrassment:  Buy a more expensive wine!

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